(The piston with a 0.5mm standard base gasket does not quite come flush to the top of the cylinder.) I found the std head gasket to be 55.3mm bore and with the piston only 0.6mm larger in diameter it seemed to have no problems with clearance or the piston touching the gasket.
#Kawasaki kmx 125 forum windows
I went with the 2mm oversize cylinder and piston kit that had been bored out and re-plated to suit a Wossner 56mm forged piston, as the price was cheaper than new kawasaki parts and the ports have been lightly matched and cleaned up at the port windows too. The last post was made 15 years, 199 days ago.I have recently got my KMX 125 back together and I'm just doing the coolant plumbing for the bigger custom radiator I had made.
#Kawasaki kmx 125 forum full
There's plenty that can be done to tune the KMX like any other 125 really, but when in full power form it's as quick as any of it's rivals and as fast as you would want from a trailbike 125. The KMX125 does have a restrictive airbox lid however that is not a restriction as such, but it hampers airflow and by modifying the lid and re-jetting gains of 1-2bhp have been seen on KMX's that have been dyno'd before and after. There's no restrictors in the carb-airbox duct, or carb-reedvalve manifold. 15/48t is the best gearing compromise however! If you tune the engine closer to 25bhp at the wheel then it can pull 16/50t gearing to give almost 90mph, but with less acceleration. However you can fit a 15t front sprocket to up the top speed to about 85mph, which is better for road use, and still allows good acceleration. This is enough power to redline the kmx125 in 6th, and gives 80mph on std 14/48 final drive gearing.
It will then have 24bhp or between 20-21bhp at the rear wheel. No rejetting is required on any u.k spec and most european spec bikes. It is a welded in restrictor in the entrance to the expansion chamber, it looks near enough the same as the NSR125 restrictor with 3spot welds, that more people on here are aware of. Later KMX's certainely from 97 onwards have only one restriction. Remove the exhaust there *may* be a washer welded in it where it leaves the head. Newish ones there is a restricting rubber sat between the carb and airfilter. Also there is a chance that there is a piece of rubber inserted in the space between the carb and airfilter. If you are not happy to do this and worry about your own mechanical experience then don't do it.Īfter removing the washer and altering the valve you may need to re-jet the carb. I am fairly sure the de-restricted KMX was good for 21bhp, you are doing all of this at your own risk as the extra power will put more strain on the engine and almost certainly will reduce its life expectancy. It will be logically positioned at the front of the engine on the exhaust outlet. If you have the blanked off KIPS valve then you just need to remove the cover and rotate the valve.
With a flat file or maybe a hacksaw blade you should be able to remove the section of weld that holds it in place and remove the disk IIRC you will see the washer (?) inside the exhaust header (nearest the cylinder head) and it will be mounted to the outer edge of the exhaust at at least two points. If it is restricted as I thought then first off you need to remove the exhaust.